了解如何通过简单的技巧在Photoshop或GIMP中制作HDR图像
HDR tone mapping is everywhere these days; it’s sort of like Auto-Tuning equivalent of photography. Want to create High Dynamic Range images without the “HDR” look? Open up Photoshop or GIMP, and get ready to hack some images!
HDR色调映射如今无处不在。 这有点像摄影的“自动调谐”。 是否要创建没有“ HDR”外观的高动态范围图像？ 打开Photoshop或GIMP，并准备**一些图像！
If you remember from our previous article, HDR is a blanket term for drawing out lots of detail from multiple exposures and loads of artful techniques, all with the intention of creating images with detail beyond the capabilities of normal cameras. Keep reading to see how a few photographs, manual settings, and image editing skills can create amazing HDR photographs.
如果您还记得我们以前的文章，那么HDR是一个笼统的术语，用于从多次曝光和大量巧妙的技术中汲取很多细节，所有这些目的都是为了创建超出普通相机功能的细节图像。 继续阅读以了解几张照片，手动设置和图像编辑技巧如何创建令人惊叹的HDR照片。
Photoshop HDR Pro和其他工具 (Photoshop HDR Pro and Other Tools)
Yes, before we start, we should cover this point. We won’t be discussing any tone mapping HDR programs in this article, like Adobe’s Photoshop plug in, HDR Pro, or Photomatrix. Instead, we’ll be covering a technique for manually combining image data to create a rich looking HDR image without any complicated tone mapping software.
是的，在开始之前，我们应该涵盖这一点。 本文不会讨论任何色调映射HDR程序，例如Adobe的Photoshop插件，HDR Pro或Photomatrix。 相反，我们将介绍一种无需任何复杂的色调映射软件即可手动组合图像数据以创建外观丰富的HDR图像的技术。
Don’t fret—we will be covering how to create tone mapped images in the foreseeable future, but for today, we’re going to learn how to get rich results without that obvious “HDR Look.”
不要担心-我们将在可预见的将来介绍如何创建色调映射的图像，但是对于今天，我们将学习如何在没有明显的“ HDR外观”的情况下获得丰富的结果。
拍摄包围的照片 (Taking Bracketed Photographs)
One of the keys to creating HDR images is bracketing your exposure. For this example, we’ve photographed this still life multiple times, each with different manual settings.
创建HDR图像的关键之一就是包围曝光。 在此示例中，我们多次拍摄了这种静物，每次都有不同的手动设置。
This is called “bracketing,” and it involves taking a shot multiple times (presumably with a tripod) while changing the exposure by stopping up or down the various elements: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. In our example, we’ve kept the same ISO and aperture settings, adjusting the length of the exposure to allow more light to the sensor. Note the detail in the light bulb in the darkest images, while the brightest images show more detail in the shadow areas.
这被称为“包围”，它涉及多次拍摄(大概使用三脚架)，同时通过停止或降低各种因素(光圈，快门速度和ISO)来改变曝光。 在我们的示例中，我们保持了相同的ISO和光圈设置，调整了曝光的长度以允许更多的光进入传感器。 注意最暗的图像中灯泡的细节，而最亮的图像在阴影区域中显示更多细节。
Take as many photographs of your image as you care to, adjusting each exposure by one stop. It’s always better to to take more images than you need and bracket way to much than to bracket too little and be sorry later.
尽可能多地拍摄图像照片，并一站式调整每次曝光。 拍摄比自己需要的更多的图像总是最好的，而包围太多的图像总比包围的图像太少而后悔。
使用Photoshop或GIMP“**” HDR图像 (“Hacking” an HDR Image with Photoshop or GIMP)
With the proper images, it’s possible to build an HDR image in Photoshop or GIMP. We’ve taken three of our images. The first one uses ISO 200 (very slow, better detail, less grain) and an f25 (blocks most of the light) aperture setting at a very fast shutter speed. The third one uses the same ISO and f stop setttings, but uses a much slower shutter speed, possibly as slow as 15 seconds. The first has great detail in the brightest areas (you can read the text on the lightbulb) and the third image has detail the other images lack in the shadows.
有了正确的图像，就可以在Photoshop或GIMP中构建HDR图像。 我们已经拍摄了三张图片。 第一个使用ISO 200(非常慢，更好的细节，更少的颗粒)和f25(可阻挡大部分光线)的光圈设置，快门速度非常快。 第三个使用相同的ISO和f停止设置，但使用的快门速度要慢得多，可能低至15秒。 第一个图像在最明亮的区域具有很高的细节(您可以阅读灯泡上的文字)，而第三个图像则具有其他阴影中缺少的图像的细节。
The middle image was taken using the same tripod composition, opting instead for auto settings and a flash exposure. This, more so than the manual exposures with auto white balance, gives a naturalistic image, although it is devoid of detail, both in the bright highlights and dark shadows. Our goal is to transform that “so-so” image into a rich, detail filled HDR image with these three exposures.
中间的图像是使用相同的三脚架构图拍摄的，而是选择自动设置和闪光曝光。 这比具有自动白平衡的手动曝光更能提供自然的图像，尽管它没有细节，包括明亮的高光和黑暗的阴影。 我们的目标是通过这三种曝光将“一般”图像转换为丰富，细节填充的HDR图像。
We start with our darkest image, and set it to be our base layer. Simply open your darkest image in Photoshop or GIMP and go from there.
我们从最暗的图像开始，并将其设置为我们的基础层。 只需在Photoshop或GIMP中打开最暗的图像，然后从那里开始。
Add your “middle” exposure to a layer on top of your darkest exposure, and set that layer to a Blending Mode of “Screen.” (GIMP simply calls this “Mode.”) You can find this setting in the layer panel of either program.
将“中间”曝光添加到最暗曝光之上的图层，并将该图层设置为“屏幕”的混合模式。 (GIMP简称为“模式”。)您可以在任一程序的图层面板中找到此设置。
On a related note, if you weren’t careful when exposing your shots, you might find that your entire image or various parts of it move around, causing you to have to shift your image and fit your layers together. This can be tough to avoid, although using a tripod and taking careful shots can certainly help.
与此相关的是，如果您在拍摄照片时不小心的话，您可能会发现整个图像或图像的各个部分会四处移动，从而导致您不得不移动图像并将图层放在一起。 尽管使用三脚架并仔细拍摄肯定会有所帮助，但这很难避免。
As shown above, we create a layer mask on the “middle” exposure layer to block out the area that completely overwhelm the detail. You can create a layer mask in Photoshop by selecting this layer, and clicking the button in the layers panel. In GIMP, you can simply right click, and select “Add Layer Mask.”
如上所示，我们在“中间”曝光层上创建了一个图层蒙版，以遮挡完全淹没细节的区域。 您可以在Photoshop中创建图层蒙版，方法是选择该图层，然后单击“图层”面板中的按钮。 在GIMP中，您只需右键单击并选择“添加图层蒙版”。
Use the brush or eraser to subtly mask out areas in your image that you don’t want. The dark areas on the image on the left represent the masked out (or “hidden”) parts of the “middle” exposure. You can see the mask combined with the two layers on the right, with red halo representing the parts of the lamp that are masked out.
使用画笔或橡皮擦巧妙地遮盖图像中不需要的区域。 左侧图像上的暗区代表“中间”曝光的被遮罩(或“隐藏”)的部分。 您可以看到遮罩与右侧的两层结合在一起，红色的光晕代表被遮罩的灯的部分。
(Author’s note: For the sake of brevity, we’ve not taken a lot of time to explain what a layer mask actually is here. If you’re a bit rusty, you can read all about them and how to use them in this article.)
(作者注：为简便起见，我们不采取了很多时间来解释什么是图层蒙版，实际上是在这里如果你是一个有点生疏，你可以。 阅读所有关于他们 和如何使用它们 本文章 。)
Our image now has details in the highlight that weren’t possible with a single exposure. Let’s see if we can’t do something about the dark, foreboding shadows in the background.
现在，我们的图像在高光部分具有细节，而一次曝光是无法实现的。 让我们看一下我们是否无法对背景中的黑暗，不祥的阴影做些什么。
This exposure is bright, and packed with lots of shadow detail. The highlights are washed out the point of being pure, detail-free whites, but the shadows and midtones can prove very useful to our HDR image.
这种曝光是明亮的，并且充满了许多阴影细节。 高光被淘汰为纯净的，无细节的白色，但是阴影和中间调对于我们的HDR图像非常有用。
Paste your shadow exposure into a third layer on top of the rest. Set it to “Screen” and reduce the opacity (both options available in GIMP and Photoshop in similar places in the layers panel).
将阴影曝光粘贴到其余部分的第三层中。 将其设置为“屏幕”并降低不透明度(GIMP和Photoshop中的两个选项都在“图层”面板中的相似位置)。
You may find that your shadow image does not need as much reduction of opacity, depending on how much light it was exposed to, so use whatever opacity works best for you. 33% is not a perfect, one size fits all solution.
您可能会发现，阴影图像不需要多少降低不透明度，具体取决于它所暴露的光线量，因此请使用最适合您的不透明度。 33％并不完美，一种尺寸适合所有解决方案。
Create a layer mask on your shadow exposure (just like before) and use your paintbrush (or eraser) to mask out the areas you don’t want. In this example, we’ve masked out the parts of the image that are shown here as red. This allows us to have dark, rich shadows in the areas you would expect them to fall, while allowing the subtle wood grain texture to appear in the previously detail-free black parts of the shelving.
在阴影曝光上创建一个图层蒙版(就像以前一样)，然后使用画笔(或橡皮擦)遮盖不需要的区域。 在此示例中，我们屏蔽了此处显示为红色的图像部分。 这样一来，我们可以在预期会落入的区域中形成深色浓郁的阴影，同时使微妙的木纹纹理出现在以前没有细节的架子的黑色部分中。
Our final image is the successful, subtle combination of three exposures, that has detail that rivals tone mapped HDR images—except without the halos, ghosting, and that obvious “HDR photo” look. If you just want a good, rich HDR image, you could certainly do worse than making your own this way.
我们的最终图像是三种曝光的成功，微妙的组合，其细节可以与色调映射的HDR图像匹敌-除了没有光晕，重影和明显的“ HDR照片”外观。 如果您只想要一个良好的，丰富的HDR图像，那肯定比做这种方式做得还差。
Have questions or comments concerning Graphics, Photos, Filetypes, or Photoshop? Send your questions to [email protected], and they may be featured in a future How-To Geek Graphics article.
对图形，照片，文件类型或Photoshop有疑问或意见吗？ 将您的问题发送到[email protected] ，它们可能会在以后的How-To Geek Graphics文章中介绍。
Image Credits: WF Fancier 535 by F 5.6, available under Creative Commons. All other images by the author.
图片来源： F 5.6的 WF Fancier 535，可在“ 知识共享”下获得 。 所有其他图像均由作者提供。